The result is a shutter slit traveling across the image sensor. This is why a single flash can expose the entire image.Ībove the sync speed the second shutter starts to travel before the first shutter finishes its travel. When you shoot at the sync speed or lower the first shutter opens fully before the second shutter starts to travel. SuperSync or HyperSync is not the same as High Speed Sync. Just last night I was syncing my 5D at 1/8000s with my Jinbei Freelander II. Ironically cheap flashes have longer duration and work best with this. ![]() I have the 622 and its has a feature called SuperSync which works with flashes that have long tail (duration). The dark bars across the image might be less pronounced but they would still be there. Adding a non-HSS flash to your setup would result in part of the HSS flash lighting the image uniformly while the non-HSS would only light part of the image. The whole point of use HSS is to avoid the problems that occur when firing a single full powered flash with a fast shutter (dark bars across the image). Have a flash that has HSS, connect it to a non-hss flash using PC sync to trigger it and place the non-hss flash in manual mode and set it a particular way so that it triggers in unison with a HSS setup? Is there any way of using a flash that does not have HSS features and incorporate it into a HSS setup by configuring the power manually?Įg.
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